Innovation in biofabrication processes is transforming multiple industrial sectors. In the textile industry, biofabrication refers to the production of materials and textiles using biological processes and living organisms (or their components) instead of conventional mechanical and chemical methods. In textiles, biofabrication specifically denotes processes in which fungi, bacteria, or cells and enzymes are used to directly produce fibers, sheets, or fabric-like structures, without the need for spinning, weaving, or conventional finishing operations. Common examples include:

* Mycelium: a fungal material that grows in sheet-like forms resembling leather

* Bacterial cellulose, used in lightweight and medical textiles

* Bio-leathers

In modern society, both producers and consumers are increasingly seeking ways to contribute to environmental protection as part of their social responsibility. Innovation within the bioeconomy in the field of materials production represents a promising pathway for the future. In this context, the European Union invested in the MY-FI project, with a particular focus on the Future of Textiles results package. A consortium of scientists, manufacturers, and market experts collaborated within this project to develop a new, high-quality material with a low environmental footprint.

Maximizing the Use of Fungi

Most materials used in contemporary apparel—such as cotton, linen, wool, and leather—are of plant or animal origin, while many others are synthetic or fossil-based. The resources consumed in producing these raw materials are costly, and their manufacturing processes often leave significant environmental impacts. As an alternative to these conventional materials, mycelium grown under controlled conditions exhibits highly attractive properties.

The primary structural component of fungi is chitin, with smaller proportions of glucans and proteins. Together, these components form a fibrous, interconnected network that gives mycelium its structural strength and flexibility. Like cellulose—a widely used polysaccharide in the textile industry—chitin is non-toxic and biodegradable. In combination with glucans and proteins, it enables mycelium to function as a sustainable biomaterial.

Mycelium is essentially the root-like structure of fungi. It consists of a network of intertwined filaments known as hyphae, which not only absorb nutrients required for fungal growth but also act as a communication system. Mycelial filaments are more advanced than plant roots: while plant roots primarily absorb and transport water and nutrients, mycelium also decomposes organic matter and transmits signaling information between fungi, similar to neural networks.

When grown under fully controlled conditions on organic substrates such as agricultural waste, sawdust, husks, or lignocellulosic materials, mycelium spreads across the surface and forms a dense, interwoven layer. This fungal structure is then dried, compressed, molded, and processed to produce textile materials or leather-like sheets that are biodegradable and environmentally friendly.

Unlike conventional leather production—which relies on livestock farming, toxic tanning chemicals, and water-intensive processes—or synthetic leather, which is plastic-based and non-biodegradable, mycelium-based bio-textiles grow using minimal resources and represent a sustainable alternative aligned with circular economy principles.

Innovative Biotechnology and the Circular Economy

Within the MY-FI project, two fermentation processes were used to grow mycelium:

1. Dynamic liquid fermentation: In this process, microorganisms (such as fungi or bacteria) grow in a continuously stirred liquid medium to produce biomass and biocompounds. Stirred bioreactors were used to grow fungal fibers. After an alkaline treatment, the solid fraction was separated, yielding a flexible, semi-transparent material.

2. Surface liquid fermentation: In this method, microorganisms—particularly fungi—grow on the surface of a liquid medium in direct contact with air rather than being fully submerged. In the MY-FI project, fungi were cultivated under specific conditions on selected substrates, then harvested and dried. The resulting material consisted of soft, white sheets of pure mycelium.

Cultivating mycelial fibers through fermentation offers numerous environmental advantages. By using by-products from agri-food industries—or even other sectors such as textile waste or brewery residues—as feedstock, fermentation contributes to intersectoral circularity. Greenhouse gas emissions are minimized, and energy consumption remains low. Because fermentation can be carried out locally, near-market production becomes possible, reducing transportation costs and shortening supply chains.

Based on the promising results of the MY-FI project, market readiness for these materials in the near future appears feasible. The surface liquid fermentation process developed by SQIM has proven to be the most effective method. Scaling up this process to industrial production will be a central focus of future research and development.

Properties and Applications of Mycelium Materials

Next-generation mycelium-based materials are uniform, durable, and high-performing. They represent an ideal alternative to leather for luxury fashion products such as wallets, belts, handbags, shoes, and accessories. Their properties also make them highly suitable for automotive applications, including seat covers, headrests, and steering wheels.

MY-FI research into bio-textile production marks only the beginning. A broader and more comprehensive view of fungi within the bioeconomy reveals virtually limitless potential applications. Fungi are already used across sectors such as pharmaceuticals, bioremediation, agriculture, and many others.

High-quality mycelium-based materials are now entering the market. The innovations developed within the MY-FI project—aimed at producing fully biodegradable raw materials from low-value by-products—represent a starting point for a green transformation in the fashion industry.

How Is Mycelium Fabric Made?

1. Substrate selection: Organic base materials such as sawdust, agricultural residues, sugarcane bagasse, or hemp shives are used as nutrient-rich substrates for fungal growth.

2. Inoculation: Mycelium cultures or spores are introduced into the substrate to initiate colonization.

3. Growth / colonization: Under controlled conditions (humidity, temperature, oxygen, and light), the mycelium grows throughout the substrate, forming a cohesive network.

4. Molding or shaping: During growth, molds can be used to shape the material into leather-like sheets or complex three-dimensional textile structures.

5. Drying and deactivation: Growth is halted through drying, heat treatment, or chemical stabilization, rendering the material biologically inactive.

6. Finishing / coating: To enhance durability, flexibility, and aesthetics, finishing processes such as natural waxes, pigments, or biodegradable coatings may be applied.

Advantages of Mycelium-Based Bio-Textiles

*Biodegradability and low environmental impact
Pure mycelium-based materials are inherently biodegradable. Under appropriate conditions, they return to the environment without leaving microplastics or toxic residues, making them ideal for circular fashion systems.

*Lower greenhouse gas emissionsCompared to animal leather—which involves livestock farming, methane emissions, and chemical tanning—mycelium composites require far less water, energy, and processing, resulting in a significantly reduced carbon footprint.

*Versatility and tunabilityMycelium can be engineered to exhibit a wide range of textures and mechanical properties. By adjusting growth conditions and post-processing steps (drying, pressing, coating), it can mimic soft textiles, firm leather-like materials, or semi-rigid composites.

* Integration with waste streams and circular economy

Mycelium grows effectively on agricultural and textile waste, transforming discarded biomass into valuable fashion materials. This circular model converts waste into resources, closes material loops, and minimizes landfill impact.



Challenges and Barriers

Despite their promise, mycelium-based bio-textiles face significant challenges that currently hinder large-scale adoption and commercialization. Understanding these barriers is essential for developing a realistic future roadmap.

* Achieving large-scale production with consistent quality remains a major obstacle. Many applications are still at the prototype or small-scale stage, preventing economies of scale.

* Fixed costs—such as substrate sterilization, controlled growth chambers, clean rooms, and post-processing equipment—add to capital expenditures.

* Logistical challenges associated with scaling up (space, storage, quality assurance) increase unit costs, limiting competitiveness with mass-produced synthetic fibers.

* Researchers note that widespread adoption will remain difficult unless input costs (substrates, energy, labor) are significantly reduced.

Mechanical Property Challenges

- Matching the mechanical performance of mycelium materials with conventional leather or engineered textiles is challenging:

  * Tear strength, tensile strength, abrasion resistance, and puncture resistance often fall short of industry standards.
  * Flexural durability, UV/light aging, thermal stability, and resistance to humidity and temperature fluctuations are still under investigation.

- Some mycelium composites may crack, delaminate, or degrade under prolonged exposure to harsh conditions.

- Achieving uniform mechanical behavior across large mycelium sheets remains technically demanding.

Finishing and Additives 

To improve durability, water resistance, dyeability, or surface texture, coatings or additives are often applied. Such finishes—including synthetic polymers, resins, dyes, and crosslinkers—can compromise the intrinsic biodegradability of the material. Identifying finishing agents that are both bio-compatible and biodegradable without degrading performance is a major active research area. Compatibility between the mycelium matrix and coating materials must be carefully managed to prevent cracking or delamination.

Examples from the Fashion Industry

Mycelium is no longer confined to laboratories. In recent years, it has entered global fashion stages and commercial production lines:

1. In 2022, the Italian biotech company SQIM collaborated with Balenciaga to introduce Ephea, a mycelium-based leather alternative. A black oversized Balenciaga coat made from Ephea debuted at Paris Fashion Week, symbolizing the entry of fungal textiles into high-end fashion. Ephea is grown using patented fermentation technologies that allow precise control over texture and thickness. It meets strict environmental standards, is plastic-free, and fully biodegradable.

2. Based in San Francisco, MycoWorks pioneered Fine Mycelium, an engineered form of mycelium used to produce Reishi, a luxury leather alternative grown on plant-based substrates. Reishi has been adopted by luxury brands for hats, handbags, wallets, and small leather goods, closely mimicking the look, feel, and durability of calf leather. In 2023, MycoWorks opened a manufacturing facility in South Carolina to enable broader commercial distribution.

3. The American biomaterials company Bolt Threads developed Mylo, a soft and flexible mycelium-based leather alternative. Brands that have used Mylo include:

   * Stella McCartney (handbags, bustiers)
   * Adidas (Stan Smith concept shoes)
   * Lululemon (yoga mats and accessories)


Innovation in mycelium-based biofabrication continues to redefine sustainable materials and signals a transformative future for textiles and fashion.

♦ References

► https://cordis.europa.eu

►https://bangladeshtextilejournal.com 

♦ Link

► https://B2n.ir/nassajyar01925

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